A French bistro menu, a fleet of crisp white-shirted waiters, and a bubbling crowd greet diners in this iteration of the minimalist cement-walled space on the Madrona strip—the best iteration yet. The reason? The steak frites lineup, offering six cuts of meat up the ladder of price points with a choice of four sauces—a swell match to how the Madrona mix of families and young professionals want to eat. (No need to venture beyond the $30 hanger steak, by the way; it’s plenty tender and flavorful.) Beyond that, the Ethan Stowell quality control in the kitchen is amply evident across bistro classics; if it’s available don’t miss the lush goat cheese–mushroom tartine. The bar is great, but the small patio a few steps from the restaurant is almost bucolic.