None of the visual cues in this South Lake Union hot spot scream “gastronomic destination”—not the big bar, nor the bar scene, nor the big screens, nor the generic brick-wall-and-exposed-ductwork decor. But then your food arrives, and it’s brave, with the courage of its flavor convictions—smoky anchovy tartines, deep-fried pig’s tail with mustard, a pungent oxtail ragu over fresh pappardelle—and you realize that Re:public is actually a restaurant first. (With incredible Italian desserts, too.)