Serious noodle geeks the region over make pilgrimage to this strip-mall storefront for bowls of wide, hand-ripped biang biang noodles, a relative rarity outside the northwest Chinese province of Shaanxi and its capital city Xi’an. They have a particular talent for soaking up the accompanying sauce, be it egg and tomato, a brilliantly simple chili oil, or zha jiang, a deep, dark combo of ground pork and fermented bean paste that’s earthy and comforting.