There’s nothing else like it downtown: no other place casual enough for dropping in, festive enough for an occasion, visible enough to remain on the radar, and proffering a vast menu of comfort foods rigorously embellished by mayo and melted cheese. We’re talking pastas, sandwiches, salads, and pizza, plus a few meaty mains. And wine, rivers of it, is offered in flights or 80-plus by-the-glass selections, with cheeses or food trios you assemble yourself. Sitting in the soaring glass-skinned chamber centrally anchored by a massive tower of wine, amid the clattering urban jumble of shoppers and theatergoers and business folk at Fourth and University, you feel you’ve located the beating heart of downtown. The rustic Woodinville original and the suburban Bellevue branch cater to families and gadabouts at a more relaxed pace.