Chef Rob Sevcik spent six years cooking under Thierry Rautureau, running the kitchen at Rover’s, then Loulay. His window-lined space in Madison Valley offers similar fine dining niceties—table linens, amuse bouches, genteel service—but the kitchen is a window into the chef’s brain: restless and nimble. Sevcik’s dishes draw heavily from his French training, but riff in every direction, so long as it’s elevated.