This many-textured dining room on Ballard’s main drag preaches the pungent, spicy gospel of Thailand’s Isan region, using high-quality proteins, like a nam tok meat salad made extra savory with boar collar, or deceptively fiery Thai sausages. It’s hard to narrow things down on a menu full of curries, stir frys and tossed dishes like larb or yum kao tod (aka crispy rice salad) but the soups deserve special attention.