Perché No Pasta and Vino Editor’s Pick
The Wallingford branch of the late and much-mourned Queen Anne Perché No is about three times bigger than the original and determinedly child friendly, with a sunny multilevel interior, a noodle-heavy kids’ menu, the musical strains of "Funiculi Funiculà" bouncing through the room, and owners, the Kongs, who are as welcoming as long-lost relatives. Grown-ups will be more interested in the vast list of housemade pastas—a rarity in this town—which are sometimes just fine, like the squid-ink fettuccine with white beans, anchovies, and garlic; and other times underseasoned. You’ll also like the wine list, which includes a whopping three dozen wines by the glass. Servers, aside from those friendly Kongs, can sometimes lose control of the enormous space.