Old Village’s dark booths deliver genuine authenticity, thanks to the old-school charcoal grills (complete with robotic grill hoods that descend from the ceiling) for browning the raw bits of marinated beef and pork bulgogi that servers slice with scissors at the table. Diners bop around to ’80s tunes (Madonna!) and try to decipher the mysteries of a muted news broadcast beamed in from Seoul while enjoying some of the best grilled meats and mushrooms around. And no need to fight over the macaroni salad—banchan (side dish) servings are unlimited.