There are showier sushi restaurants and omakases in the city, but this restrained dining room in Madison Park can deliver a lineup of pristine nigiri, then turn around and serve you dollops of spicy salmon tartare atop crisped rice or maki that successfully cross-pollinate foie gras and seared tuna. The menu’s vast, the clientele mostly devoted regulars, and the buzz level not nearly as loud as what this classic spot deserves.