This all-day downtown restaurant adjoining the lobby of the Hotel Max is like a cave designed by Martha Stewart: lights low, lines classic, firewood stacked at the entrance, flames leaping brightly out of the custom-built nine-foot grill in back. And holding forth at those flames is executive chef Kirin Chung, who oversees big pedigreed steaks—striploin, sirloin, short rib, rib chops—and a lineup of satisfying standards.