A wall of steamy warmth comes in a rush when you first squeeze in the door to await a table. In the kitchen, ladies (always ladies) lift noodles from enormous vats of boiling water. From wide flat rice noodles beneath a stew of cold pork that tingles with spice to wontons that bob in rich bowls of broth and brisket, everything carb-related feels prepped with particular care. Noodle bowls and the smoothest of congee are worth hassling with the cash-only policy.