You’ll have to beat back the hordes to snag a table in this folksy, raw-timbered Leschi favorite (from the owners of Purple and Barrio), but once you do you’ll encounter a menu of crowdpleasers—whether that menu’s for breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dinner. Pastries at brunch, grain bowls by evening, globally-tweaked dishes like tuna poke, a strong healthy streak—almost every dish has a fan club. Mind you, reach-wise it’s about as highbrow as dinner at Mom’s—but the welcome’s just as sweet.