Over the years, Dan Crookston has safeguarded one of the town’s coolest, most eclectic sandwich menus, bequeathed by Mean’s original owners. This includes a Jersey-style sub, the steak tartare club sandwich, and a corned beef with an unexpected (but delightful) gust of mint. Crookston’s own additions—a smash burger, a fried chicken po’boy—are more straightforward, but just as well considered. The oyster po’boy shouts out to his days as a salesman for Hama Hama Oyster Company. A large patio-garden in the back puts out ping-pong, darts, and cornhole in nice weather.