Hajime Sato’s bustling West Seattle sushi joint has always been very Seattle: deeply traditional and thoroughly modern in the very same bite. And now that modernity requires environmental awareness and action, Mashiko is really on a roll. Since phasing out Atlantic salmon, Southeast Asian shrimp, and other endangered and at-risk seafood, demand for Sato’s seats and bar stools has only increased. With reusable chopsticks made from wheat products in hand, environmentally conscious eaters pout, just a little, about the soft-shell crab and black cod liver that no longer make the cut, and cheerfully inquire about the domestic catfish that replaces off-limits freshwater eel. (It’s marinated to almost the exact same sweet and buttery effect, without the hairy, sort of scratchy texture of unagi). A Japanese-born, traditionally trained sushi chef making sustainability seem sexy and slathering just a little cream cheese here and there? Only in Seattle, folks, only in Seattle.