Earlier this year, Hajime Sato sold his bustling West Seattle sushi joint to three long-time employees, but the restaurant retains an essential presence in the neighborhood—and its deeply traditional and thoroughly modern charm. Since phasing out Atlantic salmon, Southeast Asian shrimp, and other endangered and at-risk seafood, demand for Mashiko’s seats and bar stools has only increased. With reusable chopsticks made from wheat products in hand, environmentally conscious eaters pout, just a little, about the soft-shell crab and black cod liver that no longer make the cut, and cheerfully inquire about the domestic catfish that replaces off-limits freshwater eel. (It’s marinated to almost the exact same sweet and buttery effect, without the hairy, sort of scratchy texture of unagi). Making sustainability seem sexy and slathering just a little cream cheese here and there? Only in Seattle, folks.