The counter once home to Bar Ferdinand has a sharp new aesthetic and a continued dedication to natural wine. Owner Brandin Myett’s glass list is a concentrated blast of esoteric fun (like a rotating orange wine), and the staff’s happy to explain the finer points of carbonic maceration pinot noir without getting all wonky about it. Drinking these discoveries in the center of Melrose Market feels like peak Seattle in the best possible way. On Mondays and Tuesdays he turns the space over to Sankaku, a popup that’s all about onigiri.