In 2010 the cozy Belltown original gave way to its current windowy quarters on the edge of Capitol Hill and a relaxed neighborhood vibe. Owner Donna Moodie, one of the city’s genuine hosts, has warmed the room’s hard edges with pillows and exuberant color on azure walls; in summer the garage doors roll up and the happy burble from the bar and restaurant rolls out onto the patio. An adjunct space known as the Turntable seats overflow or private parties. The menu plays globe-trotting homage to Italy (porchetta, housemade gnocchi), India (tikka masala chicken), and the American South (in the past, a juicy pork shank with grits and greens and red-eye gravy); but the attention-getter is a fat messy burger with aioli, harissa ketchup, and, if you want it, a distractingly thick slab of bacon. The dessert menu may go beyond the bourbon brioche bread pudding, but we never have.