If a Hall of Fame for restaurant pivots existed, this West Seattle storefront’s transformation back in 2012 from high-end Spring Hill into the more affordable, more Hawaiian Ma‘ono would be in there. So would the spam musubi and the burger on a King’s Hawaiian sweet bun. But Ma‘ono’s calling card remains the fried chicken: Every night (reserve early!) about 30 all-natural birds are brined, soaked in buttermilk, dredged in flour, battered, floured yet again, fried—and, yes, fried one more time. The result is, well, perfect. As are the fried chicken sandwiches owner Mark Fuller spun off at two Ma‘ono counters inside the Capitol Hill and U Village Rachel’s Ginger Beer bars.