Chef Mark Fuller transformed his high-end, award-winning Spring Hill Restaurant into the more affordable, more Hawaiian Ma’ono. The mood now is lighter, as if the West Seattle storefront is suddenly more comfortable in its skin. The old menu’s down-market superstars, such as the beef burger and the saimin noodle bowl (with the richest smoked pork and ham broth in town), feel like the heart of the menu, with plates of Hawaiian fusion in the form of steamed barbecue pork buns with shoyu-harissa dip or spam musubi. Best is the chicken for which they changed the concept: Every night (reserve early!) about 30 all-natural birds are brined, soaked in buttermilk, dredged in flour, battered, floured again, fried in peanut oil—and fried again. The result is, well, perfect.