Who knew that one of Seattle’s pioneers of Northwest cuisine—both at his former post at the Herbfarm and his current one at Poppy next door—would be so skilled at the fires and fermentations of Sichuan cooking? Here Jerry Traunfeld’s lifelong interest in authentic Asian cookery brings us ma po doufo, gong bao chicken, dan dan noodles with pork, and the like—almost certainly with more chiles and oil and funk than Westerners will be expecting, while perhaps less than Sichuan cuisine–loving diners will desire. The aesthetic, dictated by the pace of the kitchen, is crowded and chaotic and cramped—much more Chinatown than Broadway.