Owners Jim Drohman and Joanne Herron plunked this pathologically good Parisian bistro beside Pike Place Market. Here classics spark with nonchalant finesse: a bibb lettuce and hazelnut salad, one of the best charcuterie boards in the city (ranging from jambon to boudin noir). Just as admirable, though, is the quiet, seasonal invention infusing the menu. Grilled rabe with gremolata accompanies steak frites. Turnip puree sauces an olive-plumped pork roulade, along with a small regiment of baby turnips and radishes roasted stem-on, so the leaves turn to gleaming crisps. A study in French grace, sans cliche.