Brian Clevenger’s signature formula—fresh pasta, simple seafood, seasonal vegetables—found a third home in a minimalist white wedge just off Eastlake Ave. The house signature is a bowl of jet-colored noodles, dressed only with Plugra butter and the hum of chili, lemon, and marjoram. Like the plush foie gras mousse on grilled bread (or bucatini that glistens with egg yolk, or the warm evening breezes from the adjacent courtyard), its charms are simple but manifold.