The bold, briny flavors and Moorish influences of Sicilian food have long been a fixture in downtown Columbia City. The place is now on its third ownership, but they’ve retained the classics—the salt cod fritters in tomato sauce bright with capers and garlic, the perciatelli con le sarde studded with sardines, raisins, pine nuts, fennel, and olives. Summer through mid-October try the prix fixe Market Dinners when the Columbia City Farmers Market is in full bloom. Though the restaurant can make legitimate claim to culinary pretension, it’s just-folks enough to give the kids a hunk of pizza dough on arrival. It’s small, but uncomfortable chairs keep the waits short.