The apotheosis of the neighborhood restaurant, La Medusa was the first to mark Columbia City a culinary destination and has kept it so since 1997 with consistent bowls of squid ink spaghetti vongole or the original owner’s grandmother’s recipe for flavor-packed wilted greens. The restaurant’s been through a few proprietors since then, and the chalkboard menu changes on the regular, but sardine pasta, with pine nuts, olives, fennel, and saffron, is forever the standard-bearer in this cozy room.