La Casa Azul restaurant turns out Oaxacan dishes so authentic they can't even be made in country. Or shouldn't, at least, if you ask part-owner Armando Rizo. The fragrant mole sauces that blanket his pork ribs and enchiladas arrive via FedEx every three days; Rizo says there's just no way to approximate those deep, dark, scorched-and-spiced flavors without access to the exact ingredients from Oaxaca.

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