When the cramped and smoky Korean Tofu House spread out into the space next door, it secured proper ventilation in the process. You may still endure a midday wait but you’ll no longer leave smelling like you’ve spent your lunch break around a campfire. And you won’t spend much more than $10 for delicacies like kimchi beef sundubu jjigae, a gurgling concoction of bubbly broth and tofu punctuated with fermented cabbage. It’s meaty in essence if not in actuality—just a few slices float around the pot—and when the woman comes by and offers to crack a raw egg over it, nod. It adds a viscous richness to the hearty soup.