At the entrance to Madison Valley stands a restaurant casual enough for takeout, but the street food–centered menu and windowed dining room are worthy of an actual night out: Round sausages burst with garlic, a larb (aka salad) of crispy mushrooms dusted in rice powder is so bright and savory it’s almost oysterlike, while a trio of chicken drumsticks (and a satisfyingly rich curry) ground the khao soi noodle dish. Familiars like pad thai receive equally careful treatment.