Tucked away on a quiet South Lake Union street is a vegan Thai haven that, well, doesn’t taste vegan. That might be a product of Thai food’s inherent tendency towards plants and away from dairy, but Kati reminds us of an important truth—vegetables can be profoundly decadent. Like broccoli, stir fried and doused in garlic lime sauce, oyster mushrooms that travel first through sesame batter, then a fryer. Though meat’s not an option here, classic dishes—curries, khao soi, pad thai, tom yum, larb—still feel classic. And the tofu-averse can substitute jackfruit in its stead. Towering bar shelves and windows that open onto Thomas Street suit the happy hour crowd, but come for the lunchtime buffet, a steal at $15.