Chef Mutsuko Soma, who’s been on a hiatus from the dining scene since leaving Miyabi 45th last year, announced this summer that she’d be opening a restaurant of her very own. Loyal soba-slurping fans damn near lost it—and for good reason. Soma handcrafts from scratch nihachi-style soba. At Kamonegi, you can find the noodles in dishes like ikura bukkake, chilled soba noodles topped with smoked salmon, daikon, and cucumber; fukagama seiro (cold noodles with warm dipping sauce) or nanban (hot noodles in hot broth), served with manila clams, black garlic oil, and leeks. Or, go for the titular kamonegi, also in seiro or nanban, made with duck and leek—the very classic Japanese pairing—alongside mitsuba, a wild Japanese parsley. If it’s not soba you require, there are snacks like foie gras tofu with sake poached shrimp, “apps” like a beef tongue oden, with daikon and egg, and tempura made with a Edomae-style reverence, employing heirloom vegetables and a bit of whimsy: One is called “uni shiso bomb.” Um, yes please.