It looks like a hole-in-the-wall from the street, but inside candles, white tablecloths, and live guitar music some nights impart a down-to-earth brand of elegance. The cover of the menu reveals how the city of Kabul originated, and upon turning its pages diners are invited to choose their own culinary adventure. Paper-thin unleavened Afghan bread becomes a vehicle for jan-i amma, a delicate and soothing combination of yogurt, minced cucumbers, onions, and mint. The qorma-i sabzi, a soft melange of spinach and scallions, is dressed with cilantro and served beside a bed of basmati rice boldly seasoned with coriander and turmeric. Yes, vegetarians are uncommonly well-served here, but meat dishes shine, like the savory kebab murgh, a chicken filet marinated deeply in yogurt, garlic, turmeric, and a hint of cayenne pepper.