Like the restaurant, the Jones Ball—a juicy beef meatball with smoky bacon, cheese, and onion blended in—is named after the owner’s grandfather, who ran the venerable Jones Brothers Meats a mere block away for 60 years. Eat it with your choice of pasta—the gnocchi is a pillowy, lovely option—and sauce, like a Swedish one with lingonberry drizzle, another nod to this corner’s Scandinavian past.