Elevating its Totem Lake strip mall by its very presence, the cozy wood-clad Izumi is swathed in tradition, from classical music to old-country waitresses in kimonos; from sukiyaki dinners—soup, salad, sunomono, and rice included!—to the eminent Shito Kamioka behind the sushi bar, where he’s presided for over 25 years. Tables are full of Japanese businessmen enjoying classics like big unctuous chunks of black cod in caramel-lush teriyaki sauce, artfully presented with carrots and pea pods, and pristine bowls of perfect rice.