Nothing trendy about this timeless landmark, where the family of Carmine Smeraldo has been serving sumptuous Italian classics for over three decades. If pressed, the establishment regulars will praise the peerless osso buco, the garlicky rack of lamb, the noble cioppino—but nobody wants to cultivate competition for their favorite tables. Which, incidentally, are formally sheathed in white and arrayed handsomely in a windowed room, with a courtyard off the back for urban (um, loud) summer dining. Down the hall, enter the most elegant bar in Pioneer Square, all light hues and ladylike linens. The food is its equal—classics like beet salad and octopus risotto and buttery lamb chops, served as small plates—with an amaro collection headlining at the bar.