From bulgogi to kalbi ribs, Korean standards are plentiful around here, especially in the North End, where not finding a decent Korean eatery would be a story. For the panoply of other Seoul food, though, Hosoonyi Restaurant in Edmonds is a mandatory visit. Dak bulgogi with slivered, stir-fried chicken and vegetables sizzles in the bowl, fragrant with sesame oil. Fluffy pancakes studded with green onion and squid are a rainy-day Korean tradition. Sundubu jjigae is fast approaching cult status for many Seattle diners: A tureenful here, brimming with custardy tofu and hefty portions of seafood and kimchi in a salty, spicy broth is pungent, filling, and satisfying. The mackerel flank, fried crispy and sweet, is dangerously addictive. Banchan, side dishes, are generous. “Drinking snacks,” like cod intestines and pig’s feet are happily authentic. Communication—and service—is sometimes spotty. Your patience, however, is delectably rewarded.