Not even the cruelly fluorescent lighting in this Chinatown dive diminishes its affable welcome nor the hold it has on the legions of fans who live for its bubbling hot pots and smoked duck. If Cantonese seafood is Seattle’s largest Chinese restaurant category, Hing Loon delivers its broadest representation—much of it directly out of the live tanks gurgling in the corner. A thousand regulars know that the 50-plus sheets of paper taped to the wall list the day’s specials—and that those specials, plus the finest black-bean-sauce squid in the city—are the ones to try. (They also know that the Loon is a big after-the-party haunt, hopping till 2am Fridays and Saturdays.)