Ostensibly, Brian Clevenger’s roomy new digs on a prime stretch of California Avenue gives the chef behind Vendemmia, Raccolto, and Le Messe a chance to explore life beyond his patented combo of pasta, seafood, and vegetables. Haymaker does tread new ground, like a grilled pork collar balanced with stewed plums and verdant salmoriglio, an olive-y kin to pesto or chimichurri. The bar even offers a cheeseburger. But Haymaker mostly emphasizes what Clevenger does best. Like blistered green beans, showered with grated parmigiano-reggiano atop a bright tonnato—a vegetable dish with all the intrigue of a main course.