Vegan, Vegetarian
Price Scale

The stunning talents of most of the team from the prix fixe Wallingford vegan destination, Sutra, are in evidence in its larger reincarnation up the street. Though not as pretty nor as serene as its predecessor, it’s got outdoor seating and, better yet, the chef’s vegan-cookery bag of tricks (contrasting textures, layered flavors, a hint of modernism, and good ol’ coconut milk). Single-seating, five-course dinners might include dishes like a smoked carrot-ginger bisque, a beet and sorrel salad with candied walnuts and black lava salt, a Napoleon with roasted cauliflower and truffle celeriac mousse. An earnest moment of gratitude and ringing of a gong before dinner won’t be everyone’s cup of kombucha, but for our money—and not a whole lot of it in this value-rich restaurant—reverence is the appropriate response to this food.

Meal Times