The gravitas chef Chester Gerl brought to the kitchen at Matt’s in the Market he brings to his skinny Mexican slot on Ballard Ave, where intensity of flavors and exactitude of sourcing are top priorities. Well, those and tequila. Within the stuccolike and tiled and brick walls is a noisy crowd enjoying Mexican tapas, or antojitos, along with vivid tacos topped with locally sourced pork and duck and lamb, and made from the house-ground masa of imported Mexican heirloom corn varieties. That heirloom corn shows up all over the menu—perhaps in crispy gorditas or killer duck huarachitos—and deepens this food you thought you knew. Brunch too.