Beer snobs don’t usually gush about chain brewpubs. But chain brewpubs don’t usually have one of the state’s most talented lagersmiths making their beer. Kevin Davey studied brewing in Germany and at Chicago’s prestigious Siebel Institute before becoming lead brewer at Chuckanut Brewery in Bellingham, Washington’s eminent champion of lagers and German beer styles. Now he plies his trade in a rather unlikely spot on the top floor of Pacific Place, in the shadow of the AMC movie theater. Though not so unlikely: Like Davey, Gordon Biersch is all about Germanic drinking, including lots of lager styles like pilsner, hefeweizen, and the darker dunkel. They’re subtle by nature; in less capable hands that can mean bland and boring. Under Davey’s watch flavors are crisp and distinct; in February the company untethered its fixed beer lineup and let Davey decide what flows from the brewpub’s seven taps. Now that might include an India pale lager (the love child of German and Northwest beer cultures) and less familiar pieces of German beer history like a smoky rauchbier, luring beer geeks up four flights of mall escalators.