When a classically trained chef turns her fancy to gnocchi—order first, ask questions later. At this nondescript joint in the epicenter of Capitol Hill’s Pike/Pine, some six or so sauce variations appear on either delicate potato dumplings or gluten-free polenta dumplings (more crumbly, but they grow on you). Those sauces are reliably robust and sure-handed, from a vegetarian combo of roasted Portabellas, artichoke hearts, and fiery Mama Lil’s peppers in pesto, to a classic meatballs-with-red-sauce. Salads are much more seasonal and thoughtfully composed than they could get away with being, and desserts (in addition to a lineup of gelati from cotenant D’Ambrosio) include a boozy tiramisu. Portions seem small until about halfway in.