All lofted timbers and sleek glassy surfaces at the edge the stadium district, Girin is as striking as restaurants get in this town and the first, unbelievably, to present highest-end Korean cuisine. What this means—besides bring the platinum card—is Korean steak house: kalbi-marinated short ribs to dry-aged bone-in rib eyes, butchered in house to abet nose-to-tail eating. Meats are all served with ssam (herbs, leaves, and vegetables for wrapping) and banchan (a constellation of small-dish accompaniments, eggplant to nettle greens), and they’re done to perfectionist specs.