Renee Erickson’s nod to the midcentury Manhattan hotel bar, tucked at the base of the Amazon Spheres, took on an almost Lewis Carroll feel once she turned friend and virtuoso curator Curtis Steiner loose to fill the many shelves and curio cabinets with vintage naturalist specimens and elegant oddities. This high-end cocktail haunt feels like a dim and moody alter ego for a chef who usually specializes in whitewashed and winsome, but the food menu, in its curling script, is undeniably Erickson (and as broad as what you’ll find in most of her restaurants). Beef carpaccio delivers notes of anchovy, a crab tartine comes piled with Dungeness. Salads bespeak the season, and both the salty-crispy chips and their dip of fennel and dill are housemade. The unexpected showstopper, however, is a dressed-up version of a Seattle hot dog complete with whipped cream cheese and a shower of salmon roe, served on a silver platter. Deep Dive began as a side project to Willmott’s Ghost, the Italian restaurant that should debut right after press time, but quickly proved to be its own memorable experience.