Tom Douglas’s unique brand of culinary effrontery was foreshadowed in Dahlia’s vermillion walls and paper lanterns. There, seafood wasn’t just served, it was revered: items like lush sashimi and ceviches, caramelly black cod, often a piece of perfect local salmon. There, the skilled irreverence in the kitchen made for the kind of brazen pairings that would later be called fusion—and helped pave the way for the recent upmarket embrace of doughnuts and cupcakes. All that and Dahlia coconut cream pie.