Mariela Camacho honed her skills at Amandine Bakeshop, but her monthly pop-up draws on Latin America’s rich pastry traditions. Pig-shaped puerquito cookies resemble gingerbread, but with mole spicing; cookie-topped brioche conchas are chewy happiness; canela rolls are rich with cinnamon, brown sugar, and dulce de leche. And yet it’s the memory of Camacho’s rounds of mesquite sourdough—with an aroma almost like raisins—that still makes me sigh with longing. Comadre usually surfaces at Amandine the last Sunday of the month, and elsewhere on occasion.