It’s just angelically, impossibly good: two plump chunks of true cod, flaky and mild and clean, cloaked in a just-shy-of-sweet batter and gilded in the fryer to a spectacular crunch. Dipped in spicy mayo or housemade remoulade—or, the greatest test, not dipped at all—they make the best fish you’ve had in forever. Overstuffed crab rolls are lush with lemon aioli and avocado, in shattering French bread; clam chowder is creamy and heady with aromatics. Drop-in casual, Ballard indie, heavy on the scotch at the bar, stiffer than you expect on the bill.