The month the Hernandez brothers revamped the menu at their flagship restaurant in Renton, the cellphone bill hit $600. The mole sauce wasn't quite smoky enough, the green tomatillo sauce didn't have that limey kick, so they called their mother, back home in the northern Mexican state of Durango, and went over her recipes again and again. And oh, that green sauce. Smothering a plate of enchiladas with its sweet and tangy richness, it's worth all the premium daytime minutes it required. Same goes for the carne asada plate; a huge helping of seasoned, just-charred skirt steak and perfectly dirty red rice and lard-free beans sends you, flip-flops and all, to the south of the border beach village that recharges your batteries every November. What makes one neighborhood Mexican-American restaurant better than the next? Fresh (not canned) ingredients, locally made tortillas, killer salsa, original family recipes—and the cellphone bill to prove it.