When Nathan Lockwood, the chef behind Altura’s elegant tasting menus, took over the former home of Poppy, he reclaimed the rustic dishes he used to serve in Altura’s early days. But rather than reinventing the wheel, he brought in some actual ones: A small fleet of carts roam the vast dining room, offering diners a dozen-odd little snacks known as stuzzichini. It’s easy to succumb to the temptations of a rabbit meatball, cone of fried savory dough, or perfectly cooked octopus when they parade past your table. Bear in mind, though, there’s an entire menu of pasta, contorni, and large-format meat-on-the-bone dishes to explore as well. The dessert cart is crazy fun, and a feat of temperature management.