The soul of elegance, from the courtyard entrance off the Inn at the Market to the tips of its pretty white tablecloths. For over two decades Campagne has earned regional, even national, reverence for its exacting renditions of the classics of southern France—coq au vin, ris de veau, roast leg of lamb, côte de boeuf for two—prepared without stodginess, consistently putting flavor first. (Its Market address doesn't hurt in the freshness department.) The kitchen's cassoulet is a smoky, mellow version loaded with pork, duck confit, and garlic sausage; its coquilles St. Jacques a masterful preparation of delectable scallops over bright carrot puree crowned with bacon. Best, for all its legitimate claim to pretension the place is too classy to allow it: Denim and Gore-Tex fit right in among the pinstripes and fur. The bar is small and serene, wrapping itself around you like a cashmere shawl.