The shiny new Eastside municipality of Newcastle is known primarily for its pair of mountaintop golf courses: the Golf Club at Newcastle. And at the center of one of them is a colossal stone chateau—the new castle, apparently—that houses the Calcutta Grill, a sprawling mahogany homage to the golden age of British imperialism. With its fawning staff, prime rib plates, and sweeping vistas (you can see Bainbridge Island from here), the place evokes the bygone days when these ingredients pretty much defined fancy restaurant. Calcutta offers more, with standards creatively tweaked and reliably performed, and an order-off-the-menu Sunday brunch (no more buffet, alas).