A delish downtown lunch joint that rises above the run of pho parlors, both through its victuals (crispy-fresh banh-mi loaded with pickled vegetables and cilantro and grilled marinated pork, fragrantly nuanced flank steak pho) and its startling efficiency. Really: When you walk in to find every table full—and it’s big, and every table’s always full—there will be a table for you by the time your order’s up. That is: In no time at all. Cheap too.