James Beard award–winning owner and chef Holly Smith has long produced the classiest Northern Italian innovations on the Eastside, now in sleekly updated midcentury quarters befitting the distinction and white-tablecloth ideal for special occasions. Smith has a sixth sense for conception, so Anderson Valley rack of lamb might be paired with green beans in a swell idea of a bagna cauda sauce and studded with thyme-roasted blackberries. But much of the menu is sure-handed classics, like richly sauced housemade pastas, or silky burrata with belgian endives and walnut anchovy salsa. Executions sometimes falter, but not so anyone notices, and desserts approach the perfect. It helps to be familiar with Kirkland’s lakeside community of Juanita, though renovations to this hidden spot have made it easier to find.