James Beard Award–winning chef Holly Smith produces the most elegant Northern Italian innovations on the Eastside, in sleek midcentury quarters worthy of her food. Smith has a gift for conception, so an Anderson Valley rack of lamb might be paired with green beans in a swell idea of a bagna cauda sauce and studded with thyme-roasted blackberries. Classics are sure-handed, like housemade pastas or heirloom tomato-burrata salads; desserts approach perfection.