James Beard award winning owner and chef Holly Smith has long produced the classiest Northern Italian innovations on the Eastside, now in sleekly updated midcentury quarters befitting the distinction and white-tablecloth ideal for special occasions. Smith has a sixth sense for conception, so Anderson Valley rack of lamb might be paired with green beans in a swell idea of a bagna cauda sauce and studded with thyme-roasted blackberries. But much of the menu is surehanded classics, like richly sauced housemade pastas, or a slice of perfect heirloom tomato lavished with silky burrata lending subtle shadings of cream and salt. Executions sometimes falter, but not so anyone notices, and desserts approach the perfect. Warning: Unless you’re familiar with Kirkland’s lakeside community of Juanita, you will not find this hidden spot without help.