Hitchcock’s Brendan McGill runs this all-day cafe in the art deco Exchange Building, a culinary bright spot on a barren stretch of First Avenue downtown. Mornings mean espresso, pastries, and biscuits—great ones made with lard from his own Mangalitsa hogs. At lunch, the kitchen flexes to its full reach with layered salads and sandwiches in the vein of favorites from Hitchcock Deli; come afternoon, people who work in nearby offices linger in clean-lined booths with wine and charcuterie from those same hogs. (McGill’s new Roman-style pizzeria Bar Taglio across the hall: Also an excellent lunch option.)