In Kirkland, a town distinguished primarily for its high-end dining (Cafe Juanita) and its uber casual (hello, new Shake Shack), Brix Wine Cafe lands somewhere in the middle with the force of an answered prayer. Its kitchen de- livers warm broccoli salad, seared scallops, grilled ancho chile sirloin steaks, and terrific truffle fries that folks crave and would pay much more dearly for than they are asked to do here. And though the headliner may be wine—well chosen, available in flights, and starring some great Washington state selections—the food plays more than just a supporting role. It’s all to be enjoyed in a curvaceous room lined with windows in the Juanita Village development.